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Your fox needs to have his own designated space when he/she is left alone. Ideally no smaller than 60 sq. Ft. This space should be provided with a sleeping area/ hide box, toys, food and water, and a litter box if you wish to have your fox litter trained.

Note: My foxes have never had a preference of litter.


If you are keeping your fox outside, you need to make sure he/she can’t get out of its designated area. The flooring of the cage should either have a wire bottom, concrete bottom, or you need to make sure the side fencing is 3 feet under so your fox doesn’t dig out. Foxes learn how to climb pretty quick so your cage will need a secure top.


Your fox should get a combination of both good quality ‘grain free’ cat and dog food. This is something I always have available for my foxes. Baby foxes especially should always have food available. As adults, offering about 2 cups of grain free dog food a day is fine though this may vary according to the particular fox and its activity level. In addition, adult foxes need raw meat in their diet at least every other day. This can include; raw eggs, deer meat, and raw fish. Don’t worry about the bones, unlike dogs, they are able to digest them.

Note: I do not start introducing raw meat to kits until they are 9 weeks, their tummies tend to be more sensitive so I do the introduction slowly over a few weeks.

Foxes are omnivores so they also love fruits and vegetables. For fruits, they mostly stick to the melon varieties; like cantaloupe, watermelon, and honeydew melon. For vegetables they love squashes, zucchini, sweet potatoes, cooked carrots, beans and sweet peas. These are all healthy for your fox.

Note: Like children (or all of us for that matter) all foxes do not like the same foods so you may find your fox loves some foods and hates others so you will just have to try a variety until you find what he/she prefers.

Do not feed your fox: Chocolate, grapes, raisins, avocados, caffeine, green eggplant, green potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, seeds & nuts, junk food (examples: chips, cake, candy.) Always have fresh water available. No milk, sodas or alcohol.


Foxes are like super hyper puppies, and they will never grow out of it. So they need lots of exercise. Their are many ways to exercise your fox. Foxes love to play. So just play with him/her! You should play with your fox for at least one hour a day.

Note: If you are keeping your fox in the house it is a good idea to walk them in the morning and evening. Two walks a day will keep them calmer when indoors and less destructive and bored. (see more below on leash training)


Keep in mind you are training a fox. Try not to compare your fox to a dog when training. Dogs were specifically bred to learn tasks and obey their owners. Foxes purpose in life is to please themselves. So first, you want to establish a bond between you and your fox so he/she will want to learn (food is always a great motivator.) After creating a bond, it is never to early to start training your fox. In fact if you don’t start training your fox in the beginning of your relationship he/she may never learn. Set boundaries for your fox right away. For example, If you don’t want your fox going in a certain room of the house, make sure you NEVER let them in that room. That way they won’t want to go in there. Never punish your fox. Foxes don’t respond to negative punishments and will not understand why you yelled at them. Only positive reinforcements will work. As an example, if a dog potty’s on the floor and you yell at it, most will understand that they are in trouble for what they did. But if your fox potty’s on the floor and you yell at him/her, it will most likely go run and hide and be terrified of you for the next 10 minutes-many days. Yes foxes hold grudges! Instead you just want to pick your fox up and place him in his/her potty spot. And reward your fox when it goes where it is suppose to. Potty training does not come natural like it does for dogs and cats, so you need to work at it. Foxes also often require more litter boxes then a cat might. A fox will not go searching around the house for a litter box, it must be visible.


If you wish to walk your fox you want to start this right away. You can first start by getting your fox used to a leash or harness just by letting him/her wear it around the house. For a leash you want to start with an elastic/stretchy leash. So if the fox tries to run it doesn’t get pulled back or choked suddenly, instead your fox just boings back. Do not feel bad if your fox will not take to a leash as many refuse to ever get used to it.


Don’t introduce your fox to different things and people outside of your house for the first 5 days. You want your fox to get settled in and not be to stressed. After that, it is a VERY good idea to slowly introduce your fox to as much as possible and as often as possible. That is if you wish your fox to be social around guests, other people, and animals. Keep in mind that due to foxes natural instincts they will probably never be okay around those kinds of animals that they would normally hunt (bunnies, mice, gerbils, small birds etc.). Dogs and cats are okay as long as you introduce them early on.

Note: Some people might have used different successful training methods, but these are what worked for me and my foxes.

Love and cherish your fox and it will love you.

Good luck!

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